SAINT MARTIN REFLECTIONS
PHOTOGRAPHY BY SCOTT CUNNINGHAM
LESSONS LEARNED FROM AN ESCAPE TO ST MARTIN
Are we going to St. Barth? “No, but you can get there from here.” And where is here? “Here” is Saint Martin.
I dreamed of going to St. Barth, where I envisioned zipping down mountainsides to countless secluded beaches wearing nothing but his and her sarongs. I longed to stay in a cliff-side villa with a refrigerator stocked full of exotic produce and gourmet treats, just minutes away from French restaurants that reportedly close at the sight of cruise ships. To my surprise, I instead landed on St. Barth’s neighboring island, where I fulfilled variations on those visions, and learned some lessons for next time.
YOU CAN GET THERE FROM HERE
A passageway to paradise, the island’s Princess Juliana Airport (SXM) is located west of Philipsburg and accommodates 747s direct from Paris. Needless to say, it’s a popular connection – but not only for the French.
SXM welcomes one-stop flights from Columbus, putting you on the ground in time for a late lunch. Unless connecting to St. Barth, travelers won’t spend an entire day en route. By my calculation, St. Martin gives me two additional afternoons of vacation. Sure, I can stay Here.
Recent updates to SXM include expansion of the immigration highway, which has a reputation of being a bottleneck. As a result, continuing on to St. Barth is less of a headache.
If you are transferring and ready to turn in your wings, daily ferries cross the rough sea between the two islands for $65 per adult. Compared to the 15 minute flight time, the infrequent ferry crossing takes only one hour.
SINT MAARTEN IS NOT SAINT MARTIN
As I began to research my destination I thought, “Hey-Hey! An island so nice they named it twice!”
Located in the Caribbean, the unique island of St. Martin / St. Maarten is governed by two sovereign powers, the French and the Dutch. The island is 36 square miles of hillsides, coastlines, inland waterways and a collage of cultures. The island is a breathtaking example of harmonious living and cultural infusion.
Sint Maarten refers to the southern Dutch portion of the island and is part of the Netherlands Antilles. Dutch is a fine way to pay for a coffee date, but here, Dutch means English as the primary language and a prevalence of big, brutish, commercial establishments.
I’d rather go French, to the northern Saint Martin which overflows with great wine, delicate food and the chance to communicate with school girl French as my back-up language.
DON’T GET A ROOM
You may have used frequent flier miles to get here, but don’t make the mistake of checking into the generic, but perhaps beautiful, Radisson in Anse Marcel.
Get yourself your own island getaway – rent a villa.
If you are comfortable bridging the language barrier, try one of the services targeted to French travelers.
Keep in mind that French priorities may be different, so ask questions about the amenities that matter most to you. Most villas will have air conditioning in the bedrooms but standards will vary greatly as far as facilities and amenities are concerned. The rental rates though will reflect these different standards.
The majority of villas are managed by rental agencies that provide some concierge services. Some of the smaller villas are operated more like bed and breakfasts by proprietors who live within the same gated compound.
For 900 euros, you can get a two bedroom villa for a week. A twelve bedroom villa weekly rate is 12,000 euros.
ARBITEL – HOLIDAY RENTALS DIRECT FROM OWNERS
PIERRE CARAIBES – ST MARTIN LUXURY VILLAS
DON’T RENT A CONVERTIBLE
The suggestion to bypass convertibles is not to avoid frequent rainfall or expense. In St. Martin, the truth is you need a jeep – not only for the rough, unpaved roads leading to secluded beaches, but also to get over speed bumps on primary roads.
This Caribbean island, like so many age-old vacation destinations, is filled with traffic and drivers accustomed to surviving it. Minor scrapes are to be expected.
The big-chain vehicle services have offices and shuttle vans here. Otherwise, I recommend one of the small local rental agencies that provide cars that may or may not have a few forgiving dents. Local agencies also provide services such as airport pick-up in your rental – so you can be off to your villa even faster.
BUMS DON’T FIND THE BEST BEACHES
With so many beaches so close, your trip to St. Martin may require some research. Heading to the most convenient beach likely is adequate, but you may leave wondering about your selection. What are your priorities? I consider the following: beauty, access, amenities and direction of the sun. All of the beaches listed below are beautiful and have relatively easy access from self-serve parking lots.
Baie Orientale. The most famous of the St. Martin beaches features five beach clubs, all under the same ownership, with different themes but matching excellent customer service. The pristine buildings and clearly marked amenities are the closest to Disney-standard service you will find on the island. The coast faces east and is a perfect sunrise spot, I’m told. It’s also a great place to catch binocular toting Americans from big boats there to spot topless bathers. Notable: the east side of the island has fewer rain showers. For you, this may mean more reliable weather. It also means that inland vegetation is more desert-like.
Friar’s Bay. If you prefer amenities with a little less polish and traffic, visit Friar’s Bay Beach Club on the northwest shore of the island. This beach, south of the famed culinary capital of the island, Grand Case (pronounced “grahnd kahz”), features two independent beach clubs. One is a reggae theme and the other is a great-food-great-beach theme. The latter is recognized from afar by its green umbrellas and chair cushions sprinkled across the long narrow inlet beach. To the north of Friar’s Bay is a path that leads over a hill to the more secluded Happy Bay – clothing optional. The menu boards are French on one side and English on the other. Any one of the energetic young men who work there will offer to flip the menu at the first sign of a furrowed brow of confusion – and after lunch, enjoy a game of péntanque – boules provided.
Baie Rouge may be the most picturesque beach I’ve visited. It is a long crescent of light sand dropping quickly to the only-in-the-Caribbean green-to-blue waters. The beach is interrupted with greenish rocks, which, along with the breaking waves, give this beach the ocean sound those sleep CDs try to capture.
The steep beach gives a water-watcher, such as me, a great natural perch from which to take in the scene. To the north is a grand rock formation with a natural bridge. Almost the entire beach is backed by greenery, except toward the south where a few palatial villas have access. The sun comes from behind this wall of vegetation and tracks across the southern end of the beach. Baie Rouge features two competing food establishments, neither of which is as sophisticated as what you’ll find on other beaches. Order any of the grilled options, from a hot dog to a kebab mélange of fish, conch and shrimp. Wash it down with local beer, punch or French rosé, complete with a bucket of ice. Happy day. Chairs and ratty umbrellas are for rent or you may tote your own.
Baie Longue. If your trip to the beach does not require amenities or a bunch of people to watch and, like me, you like to face the water and the sun, then Baie Longue may be for you. Unless you are staying at the luxury hotel La Samanna or have rented one of the villas, then you will need to bring your own supplies – towel, chair, cooler. Unlike the other beaches, the unmanned parking lot consists of two street-side rows of spots, so getting blocked in is not likely. The west side of the beach features a treacherous table of rocks on which the waves break, creating mesmerizing sounds and sights. The tide deposits pristine ribbon debris coaxing you to recapture the treasures and back sunburn of your youth. Where there are not rocks, the surf is accessible and warm. Although there are fewer people, there seem to be more boats that crisscross the horizon, for your viewing entertainment.
RIVIERA REFRESHMENTS
Few things say Island Vacation to me like a tropical drink in my hand. I smile and sigh at that first sip – but I don’t want that sugary concoction with my noix de coquilles St. Jacques!
Enter Le Goût du Vin – possibly the finest stocked cave of French wines in this time zone. (One hour east of EST.) Want to impress your hosts with a 1980 Chateau Latour? No problem. Have a favorite Côte de Provence rosé? This place probably has it. And what’s back there behind lock and key? I don’t know, but it’s probably not a bottle between 9 and 500 euros.
Just a half day away from Columbus, I am able to enjoy a piscine of rosé with créole beach mélange kebab on the most beautiful beach. I then find an unpretentious Bordeaux to accompany a delicious French preparation of local ingredients. Lucky me.
1:1 DOES NOT INDICATE THE GUEST-TO-STAFF RATIO
Hearing, “We do one-to-one!” at several restaurants and shops, I first thought, “Good for you,” until I realized it was good for me.
St. Martin is French and uses the euro. In January 2009, establishments exchanged U.S. dollars for euros at rates ranging from 1.2 to 1.45. Credit card companies and ATMs get their share too, happily allowing tourists to pay for the convenience of their services.
In an effort to capture bigger shares of the scarce U.S. tourist dollars, businesses offer the euro number to be paid in U.S. dollars. Your meal comes to 38 euros? That will be $38, s’il vous plait.
If you pay in euros, not only will you pay more, but you’ll also pay the related fees. Admittedly, these offers are at tourist-focused establishments – so the prices already are inflated.
But a discount for American tourists rather than a secret 30 percent sock-it-to-‘em you find throughout the world? Welcome indeed.
SOUVENIR OR ART
I’m as guilty as anyone of buying a water color or some craft on a holiday and then asking the talented kids at the Framing Center to help it “travel” back to Columbus as something I want in my home.
If you want art, buy art.
Scott went in search of French painter Francis Eck, whose Expressionist canvasses invoke a sense of place, without being literal representations. His work highlights abstract landscapes and employ extensive use of impasto.
According to the artist’s promotional materials, he “holds a unique place within the body of contemporary abstract art, as a reformer and bearer of the tradition begun by Nicolas de Staël.” This may be in part because Eck literally followed de Staël’s path from France to this area of the Caribbean.
Before your trip, check out some local galleries to find artists whose work interests you. Sure, it would be great to discover an artist, but do you really want to spend your vacation doing that? Make time at the beginning of the trip to visit the galleries to discover what moves you.
OFF THE RECORD
The books may say to stay in the tourist-friendly areas, but if you are up for a cultural adventure, go off the main road. During daylight. With a big guy. Who carries a big gun. And by “big gun,” I mean camera.
In a neighborhood south of Marigot, the capital of St. Martin, we spied a freshly painted establishment called the Green Fig. We were treated like celebrities – in a good way – by an entrepreneur who began his business eight months prior and was happy to see his first tourists. We arrived late for lunch and the locals had consumed all of the specials. Graciously, we enjoyed the traditional sandwich fare, the lovely presentation, the accommodating service and delightful company.
This guy is not going to lure the tourist trade from Columbus’ own Michael Reames on the other side of the island, but we hope there are enough tourist dollars for both of them to thrive.
VIEW SARAH ARNETT’S CMH CONTRIBUTOR BIO
