ISTANBUL, TURKEY
ARTICLE AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY RAINER ZIEHM
It’s “Istanbul, not Constantinople,” but for me, it was the other way around. I spent a large portion of April in Sultanahmet, Istanbul’s old city. This is essentially what modern society knows as the Constantinople of the Roman, Byzantine and much of Ottoman empires – containing some of the most famous historical sights in the area. The Aya Sofia, The Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace, countless Turkish baths and the Grand Bazaar were all within a stone’s throw from my hostel. Instead of visiting the popular tourist traps, I walked 20 miles in the other direction to visit street bazaars near the Gypsy settlements, to watch locals playing cards and dominos in çai (tea) shops and attend religious services in conservative Muslim neighborhoods. The real Istanbul – that was the Istanbul I wanted to see.
GET ACQUAINTED
When I begin photo trips, I first immerse myself in local culture. I rarely take any photographs for the first few days. Instead I explore, watch, listen – and smell. Local food is the best way to get to know a foreign city. My first trip into Istanbul’s Eminönü district of the old city was during the evening and the air was filled with the aromas of food carts everywhere. My diet and budget were equally limited but my iron stomach allowed me to survive on street food. For less than $6 you can enjoy a full meal from vendors – I immediately knew I was going to enjoy this city.
REVERENCE
I heard the ezan, or Muslim call to worship, in various parts of India, but Turkey’s population is far more densely Islamic. Multiple mosques with calls emanating from their minarets within a small area was one of the most beautiful and haunting sounds I have ever heard. You don’t have to be Muslim, or even religious, to appreciate the depth and sincerity of this ritual.
These calls to worship happen five times daily and each is slightly different. Out of respect, many mosques are closed to non-worshippers during prayer. On my third day, an Algerian introduced me to the Imam (prayer leader) of the Sultan Ahmet Camii, The Blue Mosque of Turkey. The Imam Emrullah Hatiboğl, who two weeks earlier met with President Obama during his tour of Turkey, invited me into his private chambers. We conversed in several broken languages and I was able to take a few candid portraits.
While the people of some of Istanbul’s suburbs are less religiously oriented, most people in the old city are very devoted to Islam and its tenets. Self-admiration is avoided, which made taking photographs considerably difficult. My style of street photography depends on establishing a connection with people to capture local lifestyles. I did spend several days with gracious Muslim elders and students who allowed me to photograph them, but photographing women – candidly or not – was out of the question. It was time to move on to other neighborhoods.
THE GYPSIES
There are several Gypsy settlements in the old city. Most of them are near the ancient wall fortifications surrounding what was once Constantinople. Hatice Sultan and Balat are two of the most notorious areas still occupied by the Romani people. My curiosity to find these neighborhoods escalated after several people warned me not to go there. Balat was easiest to find, as it is located on the Golden Horn. Beautiful in its desolation, the architecture and proximity to the water reminded me of San Francisco. Children playing in the streets and Gypsy women crafting wares on the steps of their apartment blocks were common sights. However, the Gypsy neighborhood of Hatice Sultan was quite different. The smell of sulfur from the cheap coal hit me before I spotted the blocks of apartments that resembled a bombed-out western European city after World War II. Many of the locals were going about their business as any other neighborhood in Istanbul, but the dire economic situation was clearly evident. On some streets, children begged me for money. In other areas, adults scolded me for taking photographs. But I persevered and met some really wonderful people. I couldn’t take enough photos to satisfy the colorfully dressed Romani mothers – a complete contrast to the conservative Muslim areas. As a result, I spent portions of two days photographing the families and older couples clinging to what remains of this proud neighborhood.
SO BAZAAR
Turkey is not Turkey without the bazaars. The two most famous bazaars are the Grand Bazaar and Spice Bazaar – but each smaller neighborhood has its own. Take heed, traveler. As you step into one of these markets, be ready for some of the toughest, most high-pressure sales presentations you have ever experienced. Rugs, jewelry, hookahs, t-shirts, chai sets – you’ll be convinced you need at least one of everything. Negotiation is part of the experience, but I’m terrible at it. When a peddler settled at a price I offered, I knew I was still paying too much!
POLITICAL UNREST
On my last full day in Istanbul, my friends warned me to stay away from Taksim Square and Istiklal Caddesi in the Galata district – essentially the Times Square and Fifth Avenue of Istanbul. It was May 1 – which usually means Labor Day protests in Europe. One week prior, the government lifted the ban on public protests for the first time in 30 years. The ruling military party made protests illegal in 1980 when 37 people died during the conflict. Police closed the entire Galata area, businesses were closed and public transportation was suspended. I could feel the tension as the city filled with tanks, police dogs, water cannons, and over 2,000 riot cops in body armor. I heard chants from a distance and saw several smoke bombs in the alleys as 4,000 protestors arrived to demonstrate in the square. When the police decided it was time for the protest to end, the resulting Molotov cocktails and slingshots aimed at law enforcement and tear gas and water cannons directed at dissidents caused a panic. All of a sudden, as quickly as it began, it ended. Although I didn’t want to leave, I was on to the last adventure of my trip.
THE END OF A JOURNEY
During my last two days I attended two very different Semas, the ceremony of the Sufis, who are also known as the Whirling Dervishes. Most dervishes live in central Turkey, so many performances in Istanbul are for the public. Through the artist collective called Les Arts Turcs, I attended an actual ceremony at a Mevlana Temple. The practice is 800 years old, but was banned from the 1920s until the 1970s. Now, many performances are held for tourists in performance halls in an attempt to rejuvenate the form. The most beautiful performance is held at the Sirkeci Train Station – famous for being the destination of the Orient Express. Istanbul is a place that captivates the imagination – a gem of the ancient world where history comes alive – truly a magical place that surpasses expectations.
I would love to go. Looks like a bucket list item!
I spent 2 months in Turkey this past summer and I have been begging myself to back ever since. I am so happy you wrote this article because it brought a lot of memories back that I have forgotten! I am buying my ticket to go back in summer of 2010 even. Turkey in general was a marvelous place of history, culture and class. Istanbul, Turkey, in 2010 is crowned/named the cultural capital of Europe!!! I believe every bit of it!! Thanks again.