NORTH MARKET’S FARMERS’ MARKET
BY MADAME D’AFFINOIS
PHOTOGRAPHY BY SCOTT CUNNINGHAM & NICHOLAS HINSCH
Early on in my years in Columbus, I was invited to a neighborhood BBQ. I entered the yard through the back gate and immediately knew this was no typical BBQ. Tables were set for 20 people in the garden, guests were mingling with glasses of Italian Prosecco and a tall, crazy, blond guy was running around holding a small bottle of viscous balsamic vinegar imploring each guest in turn to, “Try this. It’s off the hook.” This was my first formal introduction to Tim Mackness.
I quickly recognized him as the somewhat surly, intensely loyal, loved-by-the-regular-patrons bartender at Frezno, a restaurant bar located at 630 N. High St., in what is now the Union Station space. I soon appreciated not only his skills as a bartender, but also his encyclopedic knowledge of local purveyors and his ability to make something out of anything in the kitchen. Have leftover asparagus? He’s got a recipe. Looking for the best porcini? He knows the best supplier.
Hot into the farmers’ market season, I was looking for insider knowledge of the North Market – what to buy and from whom? I knew Tim would be the best guide. Let’s call him the culinary curmudgeon.
Tomatoes
Somerset Herbs
Margaret Wince
“Margaret is a great source for heirloom and hybrid tomatoes. Her lemonboys with yellow color and a slightly citrus finish are spectacular. She is also a great source for both potted and cut herbs.”
Arugula
Wayward Seed Farm
Jaime Moore and Adam Welly
“Love the arugula – tender and peppery!”
Mushrooms
Toby Run Growers
Tim Rockwell
“This is THE ‘shroom guy. Doesn’t matter what he brings. He harvested them yesterday and they’re going to be great.”
Asparagus
Anderson Orchard
Steve Anderson
“He’s known for his sunflowers, but you should know him for his Ohio asparagus. He just lets it grow – no fertilizer or anything – so it has a sweet, not bitter, finish.”
Seedless watermelon
Hinkle Farm
Glen Hinkle
“His yellow, seedless watermelon at the end of July and August tastes like candy.”
Brussels Sprouts
Wishwell Farm Produce
Jason Wish
“He’s the only guy with brussels sprouts – and better on the stalk than loose. He also does half-runner green beans that
are fantastic.”
Grapes
The Orchard
Vicky and Bill Thomas
“As you expect from The Orchard – they’ve got apples. Damn good ones. But what you should also know is they have some very special grape varieties
including reliant and canadice. Just terrific.”
Cherry Tomatoes
Toad Hill Organic Farm
Tim Patrick
“Look for chefs from some of the most respected local restaurants shopping here. He supplies them with greens and an incredible selection of cherry heirloom tomatoes in all shapes and sizes.”
White Peaches
Rhoads Farm Market
Kathy Rhoads
“She is the only one with white peaches and they are out of this world. Also look for her blackberries – they are giant and delicious.”
