ACROSS STATE LINES

Columbusites Michael Jenkins, along with Michael Foley and Michael Brahler, formed E.T.c. Distribution Solutions to single-handedly bring Alien to CMH – one of few markets that can access the beverage. After deciding to bring the tequila across state lines, Jenkins did his homework with Ohio Liquor Control, navigated a maze of bureaucratic state laws and finally obtained the proper licensing and permissions to bring Alien to Columbus. “It wasn’t the easiest process. It’s very counterintuitive,” Jenkins says, because maneuvering state regulations and competing with industry power players at the same time is a tough job. “Seven major brokers control over 95 percent of the total revenue in the industry.” On the governmental level, “the processes and procedures have been in place since 1933, since the repeal of prohibition. The things you’re working against are completely complex.”

UNDER CONTROL

Matt Mullins, spokesman for the Ohio Division of Liquor Control, explains how the process works. The state is the sole distributor (basically the lone sales entity) of “intoxicating liquors,” or any beverage that contains more than 21 percent (or 42 proof) alcohol by volume. The state, like anyone else, has a vested interest in protecting its pocketbook. “First, solicitors have to convince us to distribute it. There has to be enough consumer demand to move it off the shelf, so they have to make presentations with market research on price points, consumer feedback and where it sits in the niche market,” Mullins says. Large brokers employ solicitors (the individuals who initiate contact with bars, restaurants, stores, etc.) and handle the overwhelming majority of sales, but Mullins says there is still a market share for the smaller companies. “There are about ten small brokers that handle the artisan drinks,” Mullins explains, and the state works to level the playing field as much as possible. “The process is the same for everyone whether you’re a big brokerage company or a single solicitor. It’s as fair as it can be.”

Under the eyes of the law, all solicitors are equal, but the same standards don’t apply to the quality of the product. Jenkins, Foley and Brahler invited CMH and industry experts to Martini Modern Italian in the Short North to sample Alien in various incarnations (chilled, neat and mixed in cocktails) alongside paired noshes from Marcella’s Ristorante and Martini’s menu. Jenkins said that tequila sommeliers are emerging as the drink gains popularity in the beverage world, so CMH captured the discussion to get insight into this growing trend.

FLAVOR PROFILE

“The flavor is there without being harsh. It really does stand up to any high-end tequila,” says Jenn Rossi, general manager of Marcella’s, who stocked Alien on her shelves after tasting it a few months ago. Kim Shaffer, bartender at Columbus Fish Market, agreed, saying her first impression was “outstanding.” “Years ago, I drank tequila as a shot, but it was always chilled or with salt and lime. Now, I just drink it neat. This isn’t the kind of drink you’d ever want to mask because the flavor isn’t that strong. You want that flavor,” she says. Alien was a hit even with people who weren’t tequila drinkers. “As a non-tequila drinker, I really like it. I was waiting for that harsh and bitter reaction – I was waiting for that cringe. It’s so mild, it caught me off-guard,” says Martini dining room manager Stephan McCarren. “This is something you would want to pair with big, bold flavors – but it’s versatile: peppers, olives or meats like a chorizo or prosciutto.” Erin McIntire, bartender at Char Bar, said she could see herself pairing it with meals. “I could eat with this, and I’m not one to eat with liquor.”

Jack Goodall, manager of Mitchell’s Steakhouse downtown, offered the most glowing insight – and the most creative comparison. “The fruit in it is so true, the agave is sincere. It blows me away. I’d compare it to something like Selma Hayek. It’s round and soft and warm. It has character. You wouldn’t want to mask that with anything else. It might pair really well in a cocktail with something light – a nectar like guava, mango or apricot.”

Among the cocktails, the biggest crowd pleaser was the Alien with elderflower. The elderflower was mildly sweet, complimenting the balance without overpowering the agave fruit notes. There was also a Malibu Rum, vanilla vodka, Alien and simple syrup concoction that amused the rum drinking set. Alien margaritas and cosmopolitans were also available to drinkers who wanted something a bit more dulcet.

PAIRING OFF

“It’s incredibly smooth, it doesn’t smack you in the face or linger in your throat too long” says Rossi. “The smoothness and fruitiness is what you should consider when pairing.” She presented a cheese board of smokey taleggio, punchy gorgonzola dolce, earthy pecorino, mild buffalo mozzarella, aged provolone, creamy aged goat and spiced, candied apricots with truffle honey alongside a bruschetta topped with fresh tomato puree, basil, prosciutto di Parma and mascarpone cheese. The pairing of the pecorino cheese with Alien was by far the tasters’ favorite. Its full-bodied, mildly salty, earthy character stood up and provided an interesting counterpoint to the sweetness of the tequila. The textural elements of the bruschetta – crunchy crostini with creamy contrasts of mascarpone and tomato puree topped with a buttery prosciutto also paired well with the alcoholic bite of the tequila.

Martini also provided paired dishes for the tasting. The creamy acidity of a meyer lemon aioli alongside the crunch of lightly fried, mild calamari paired well with the sweetness of the elderflower cocktail, and the tequila neat was perfect with the flavor profiles of Martini’s house antipasto. The antipasto, with prosciutto, figs, camenzola cheese (an offshoot of camembert and gorgonzola), roasted roma tomatos, olive salad and fresh mozzerella – all drizzled with balsamic and basil oil – provided explosions of big, bold flavor, textural contrast and salt content which were an ideal vehicle for the tequila’s sweetness.

Harris says his success has rested on two factors: “Everyone that works for us [is] like family. Everyone has a stake in the company. Working with great people is key,” he asserts, adding, “but we wouldn’t be able to be successful as we are if the quality wasn’t there.”
Alien Tequila is now available in Nevada and Ohio, but is expected to expand to Washington, Georgia, Oregon and Idaho by the next quarter of the year.

To learn more about Alien Tequila, click here.

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